Replacing a ram on Bravo 3

[LAKETIME]

Hello, all,

My Bravo 3 has a hydraulic ram that has finally gone from a very slow leak to complete failure, resulting in the outdrive just dropping down since I parked it yesterday evening.
It knew it had a slow leak, and I brought it to the attention of my shop owner, but we thought it could make it through the season, till I could get it addressed when I take back to them for winterization. The reservoir was full yesterday; I didn't check today.
If they can't get to it, I might give some thought to DIY; I still have about a month or so of good boating season left.
Has anyone replaced this little jewel on the Bravo 3?
I guess my concern would be the proper purging of any air in the lines as one would do with automotive brakes???

Thanks in advance!

 

[WIngnut]

Easy repair. Buy a tube fitting wrench, 3/8-7/16" so you don't damage the fittings. They are called flare nut wrenches. Support the drive on a wood block and remove the rear anchor pin, disconnect the two hydraulic lines, and then remove the front anchor point nut and washer, and slide off the offending cylinder. Keep it as they are rebuild-able. Install the new cylinder to the front anchor point and then install the lines. Fill the reservoir, and have a friend bump the trim switch up or down until the aft pin holes align, then install the rear anchor pin. Trim full up and then full down, and displaced air will begin to accumulate in tank. Allow air to decant and dissipate, then top off and cycle again. Only refill the tank when the cylinders are fully detracted, as filling it with drive up will cause tank to overflow when rod is withdrawn into the cylinder cavity. It will take a few round trips before all air is gone. Just take you time, and allow the system to sit several minutes between cycles.

 

[LAKETIME]

Wingnut,
That's great info to hear, and encouraging, especially since my guy at the shop stated that it could take 2 weekends in the shop; he has to order the part(s), etc,...
Would you happen to know what the cost of the cylinders would be, and how accessible they are, given the market distortions we seem to have?
In addition, I've noticed a slight film of oil around the trim oil reservoir. The shop guy said that the reservoir may be cracked due to age (2004), hence leaking.
What has been your experience with rebuilding these? The shop guy said they haven't had much luck with reliability, and they've seen too many failures from rebuilds...

Thank you so much for all your input!

 

[WIngnut]

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About $630.00 for a complete Merc Branded unit. Be sure to order the correct side as port and starboard are different. Rebuilding all depends on condition of old cylinder. Always buy the seal kit and replacement end cap as a minimum.

 

[LAKETIME]

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About $630.00 for a complete Merc Branded unit. Be sure to order the correct side as port and starboard are different. Rebuilding all depends on condition of old cylinder. Always buy the seal kit and replacement end cap as a minimum.

I ordered the Mercruiser cylinder (port). I just hope it arrives in a timely fashion. I'm not in a hurry to re-build the old one at this time.
While gathering information, I ran across a company, SEI, that sells trim cylinders that 'fit' the Bravo 3 (for less than a third of the Mercruiser price). Naturally, my BS alarms started going off; if it sounds too good to be true.....
When I corresponded with the rep, he told me that they sell a lot of them.
So...what are your thoughts on these? Are they anywhere near the quality? I'm sure there are some members that have used these. If you aren't comfortable offering an opinion on these, I understand.

 

[LAKETIME]

Just a little update...
I received the trim cylinder, removed the appropriate nuts and washers, and I could not get the trim cylinders loose. They seem to be binding in place. I even tapped on the pin from the opposite side, but no luck. As usual, this is not as straightforward as I thought! Any suggestions???

 

[WIngnut]

Just a little update...
I received the trim cylinder, removed the appropriate nuts and washers, and I could not get the trim cylinders loose. They seem to be binding in place. I even tapped on the pin from the opposite side, but no luck. As usual, this is not as straightforward as I thought! Any suggestions???

The forward pin is fixed. The cylinder slips off as soon as the nut and washer are removed. The trailing end pin floats in an eccentric plastic bushing, and pin will slide out as soon as drive weight is suspended y resting it on a wood block.

 

[LAKETIME]

Wingnut,
Thanks for your feedback. I did rest the outdrive on a block of wood while I was attempting to remove the cylinder, but it didn't make any difference. It seemed to be jammed in place. Would you recommend trying to remove the cylinder from the 'forward pin' first?

 

[LAKETIME]

Wingnut,
Thanks for your feedback. I did rest the outdrive on a block of wood while I was attempting to remove the cylinder, but it didn't make any difference. It seemed to be jammed in place. Would you recommend trying to remove the cylinder from the 'forward pin' first?

I finally got the cylinder off by removing the forward nut and washer. Unfortunately, it didn't just slip off; it required a surprising amount of prying with a tool against a slim piece of wood, against the driveshaft housing, taking care not to scratch the finish. Time ran out, so I haven't yet completely tightened all the nuts, bled the lines or topped off the reservoir. I haven't read anything about a torque specification for the nuts. Any recommendations?
Thanks!