Fuel Gauge Replacement
- Thread starter cjm13905
- Start date
WIngnut
New member
Are you sure it's not the sending unit?
Iggy
Active member
Worst case, use a NMEA2k fuel sensor. As an ensample https://www.thegpsstore.com/Brands/...Cxz-3RwvzCz1sHk1cjvzzcgTyWJ_0zoQaArXQEALw_wcB
Than you could display tank level and GPM rate on your MFD or GPS.
Than you could display tank level and GPM rate on your MFD or GPS.
Sorry, just getting back to this.
I'm no mechanic, and my boat is 8 hrs away.
I did a google search, and hooked up my multimeter to the various wires, and believe the results pointed to the
gauge.
Okay, so Wingnut had a suspicion, and after connecting a new fuel guage, and it not working, I think he is correct. I'm assuming the sending unit. .
Yr 2000
Sunesta 232.
Anyone know what sending unit I should be using, does it matter which one ? Is it hard to replace ?
Thanks.
Last edited:
Update : I replaced the sending unit.
It isn't a hard job to replace.
Took about 2 hrs due to reconfigure of wiring (more later)
and going slow to be extra careful of what I was doing.
It was the kind of sending unit that you need to adjust the arm based on tank size.
Made the float just shorter than recommended length to give a buffer of gas when it says its empty.
Tank was full , from what I could see, and new gauge registered just below full.
Below is a pic of
my wireing. Does the wiring look acceptable ? The original green ground had a ring connector,
secured by a screw. The new connection is a female clip. I didn't want to modify the original
wiring, so I connected a piece of 12 g copper via screw to the ring connector, then put a female
clip on the other end and done.
It isn't a hard job to replace.
Took about 2 hrs due to reconfigure of wiring (more later)
and going slow to be extra careful of what I was doing.
It was the kind of sending unit that you need to adjust the arm based on tank size.
Made the float just shorter than recommended length to give a buffer of gas when it says its empty.
Tank was full , from what I could see, and new gauge registered just below full.
Below is a pic of
my wireing. Does the wiring look acceptable ? The original green ground had a ring connector,
secured by a screw. The new connection is a female clip. I didn't want to modify the original
wiring, so I connected a piece of 12 g copper via screw to the ring connector, then put a female
clip on the other end and done.
Attachments
Interesting...
I've noticed that my fuel gauge is stuck on full (2004 Sunesta 252). I also have a Faria gauge. My shop advisor said they would replace the gauge AND the sender--for just under $500. Since I intend to use my Vessel View as my go-to indicator of fuel status, this is not a critical issue. However, I would still like to get this fixed. What are the odds this is the sender? Does anyone know the manufacturer or the specs on the sender (Ohm range?).
I've noticed that my fuel gauge is stuck on full (2004 Sunesta 252). I also have a Faria gauge. My shop advisor said they would replace the gauge AND the sender--for just under $500. Since I intend to use my Vessel View as my go-to indicator of fuel status, this is not a critical issue. However, I would still like to get this fixed. What are the odds this is the sender? Does anyone know the manufacturer or the specs on the sender (Ohm range?).
I am no expert, no boat mechanic, but a pretty handy guy. Replacing the gauge and the sending unit are two easy things to do.
Easy to access them and change them out. My gauge was a Sierra, and was about $35. The sending unit I bought was a Moeller, and about $40.
There is a way to test which is failing (gauge/sender) , and I thought I did it correctly and it indicated the gauge, but it was the sending unit.
The gauge sits in gas, so yours has been in there for a while and I'd guess it's corroded, and I'd start there. I bought off Amazon, and made sure they were returnable.
When working with the sending unit, I connected the new one first outside of the gas tank. moved the float, and saw the gauge adjust.
I did this in case it wasn't the sending unit, and I could still return it. If I put it in gas, don't think I could return it. Now my boat is 8 hrs away in a vacation home, so I don't have handy access to it. To best order your sending unit, you need to know the size of your tank depth. Take the old sending unit off, and put a ruler in . Measure from bottom of tank to top exterior. Use this measurement to order your sending unit. I didn't know the size of my tank (16 1/4) so I ordered a sending unit that was adjustable for varying size tanks.
If you have any other questions, let me know. For someone that has replace several of these, I'd guess its about a 1/2 hr job.
Try to do it yourself. If you can't take it to the mechanic. Save yourself $500
Easy to access them and change them out. My gauge was a Sierra, and was about $35. The sending unit I bought was a Moeller, and about $40.
There is a way to test which is failing (gauge/sender) , and I thought I did it correctly and it indicated the gauge, but it was the sending unit.
The gauge sits in gas, so yours has been in there for a while and I'd guess it's corroded, and I'd start there. I bought off Amazon, and made sure they were returnable.
When working with the sending unit, I connected the new one first outside of the gas tank. moved the float, and saw the gauge adjust.
I did this in case it wasn't the sending unit, and I could still return it. If I put it in gas, don't think I could return it. Now my boat is 8 hrs away in a vacation home, so I don't have handy access to it. To best order your sending unit, you need to know the size of your tank depth. Take the old sending unit off, and put a ruler in . Measure from bottom of tank to top exterior. Use this measurement to order your sending unit. I didn't know the size of my tank (16 1/4) so I ordered a sending unit that was adjustable for varying size tanks.
If you have any other questions, let me know. For someone that has replace several of these, I'd guess its about a 1/2 hr job.
Try to do it yourself. If you can't take it to the mechanic. Save yourself $500
I used a Moeller gauge. I looked at my old gauge, and did not see any manufacturing information.
I think the electronic Ohm settings are consistent across senders.
There is a Nut that the instructions state to tighten to 15 lbs. I don't have a torque wrench so I did what I thought was good.
cjm,
Thanks for the input! I've looked at several videos online, and there is quite a variety of sending units, with variation in the Ohm ranges.
Would you happen to have an image of your old sending unit. What yr/model is your Chaparral?
I have a 2000 232. Will look for photo.
North American standard range is 240 to 33 Ohm