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Personal, I would not drain an open system. By leaving the AF in, you not putting air into the system. Air will cause rust to form. But thats me......

If it was my boat. I would change the fuel filter first. My bigger point is and if you think its the fuel? I would use a 6gal potable tank and run the engine from that. That may save you from pumping the fuel out. The other thing I would do, after the filter. Change the impeller! If its been...

Go to Defender.com I am sure they will have what your looking for.

Happy Holidays!

Which is my point to Denny's post. I would look and look from every which way. There must be a way to get back there or you make a way. On my old Sig 290 I took out the locker at the foot of the mid cabin bed. That give me access to hoses and more. That I thought I could never reach. You just...

I would scope out the wall the best I could. Than based upon that, I may cut though the wall and add a door. Maybe dill a 1" hole to see in.

Looks good!

The size and make of the trailer would help.

A closed system is so easy to winterize. I had a Volvo (Mercs you could use muffs) which had a hose connection for flushing the engine. I would connect the AF bottle/container to the flush hose. Start the engine with 30 sec the AF can out by the prop. Done, all the water was removed.

I would change out the impeller. I always do it every 2 years. Its worn so its not sucking up the water/AF like a new one. A closed system is like a car. So no sea water runs thou the block. Rather than a radiator, you have a heat exchanger. Much easier to winterize. I use a 5gal bucket, and...

How old is the impeller? If its old, it may have a hard time pulling the AF into the engine. I take it that you have a open coolant system. Yes?

I would Google for a firm that makes custom covers. I felt the same way and more so when the wrap went up in price. Its very expensive and it will take me about 6 to 7 years to brake even. But worth it for me. My boat is covered after one week of being pulled. No waiting for the guy to come down.

I almost did the same thing my first year of boating. I come back on E. I knew I had enough fuel, but a small storm was coming. The waves went from 6" to almost 2ft. Than the wind picked up to 10 to 12 knots. I had to slow down which burnt more fuel. Than I heard of this rule. Always have 1/3...

I had the same problem. Basally, I did what SST did. I installed a NMEA2K fuel flow sensor. With both the sensor and GPS/MFD connected to the network. The GPS showed my gallons per hour rate. This also showed me my MPG, so I would adjust my speed.

Paint the boat the best way you can. The next time you go out, position the boat differently. Then go over the spots you missed.

I had rollers, so I could easily move the boat 3 to 4 inches. Personally, I did not like the bunks. They made it harder to launch or recover my boat. But rollers need to be maintained. You could use boat stands too. I can explain that if needed.

Bottom paint is what its called. As in one example: https://www.westmarine.com/bottom-paint/ Many brands, colors and types.

I know what you guys are going to say. NO!! But I have found that bottom paint works the best. Keep in mind that bottom paint will seal the glass from water intrusion too. You might loose 1 or 2 knots at WOT. But it beats cleaning the bottom after being left in for more than a week depending on...

Boats with out drives do not have sea strainers to block anything. My guess could be that some weeds got sucked in. Than for a moment the raw water pump lost suction and the temp went up. Keep in mind you need less water at lower RPMs. But its just a guess.

On boats, ABYC standard is that yellow is negative. Not knowing your boat, I would say that these switches light up. So you need to use a meter and find the load side of the switch.