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Oh, love the pics

I highly suggest a windless. With out one, I would suggest ether a cam cleat or clam cleat. In rough waters, when the bow goes down, pull the line/rode up. With the rode in the cleat, as the boat goes up the cleat will take the load. Not you, which would try to pull you over the bow.

I "think" they are talking about a 2nd anchor. Which you should have on board.

Point well taken! I had a jet ski ask me. "Which side of the buoys should I be on?"

In Mass, you can go on-line or a in person class. I do know that the on line is free from the stat's site. https://www.boat-ed.com/massachusetts/sign-up/ I am glad this is being done. There are too many recreational boaters that just don't understand the rules.

By 2026, Boaters Safety Certificate is required in Mass. So Mass boaters beware of this.

My last boat was new and the screen was filled with small plastic pieces. I would bet from drilling holes into the tank for the hoses. I would not get crazy with the wiring diagram. The breaker must be on the DC panel. Turn the breaker on, do you have power at the pump. If no, pull the panel...

I would also use a meter to see if the pump is getting 12V.

Have you cleaned the screen at the pump.

I have been using Mobil One for years in my twin 4.3L Volvos. Sold that boat 4 years ago. And my new to me boat with two diesel engines runs just fine with it. All good! Both products I would use. But Mobil One has a bigger market which lowers the price.

Here is an App that I use all the time for boating. https://www.predictwind.com/

Personal, I would not drain an open system. By leaving the AF in, you not putting air into the system. Air will cause rust to form. But thats me......

If it was my boat. I would change the fuel filter first. My bigger point is and if you think its the fuel? I would use a 6gal potable tank and run the engine from that. That may save you from pumping the fuel out. The other thing I would do, after the filter. Change the impeller! If its been...

Go to Defender.com I am sure they will have what your looking for.

Happy Holidays!

Which is my point to Denny's post. I would look and look from every which way. There must be a way to get back there or you make a way. On my old Sig 290 I took out the locker at the foot of the mid cabin bed. That give me access to hoses and more. That I thought I could never reach. You just...

I would scope out the wall the best I could. Than based upon that, I may cut though the wall and add a door. Maybe dill a 1" hole to see in.

Looks good!

The size and make of the trailer would help.

A closed system is so easy to winterize. I had a Volvo (Mercs you could use muffs) which had a hose connection for flushing the engine. I would connect the AF bottle/container to the flush hose. Start the engine with 30 sec the AF can out by the prop. Done, all the water was removed.